Scale Model Kits Guide: Airfix, Tamiya & More

Scale Model Kits: The Complete Guide

There's a particular satisfaction in completing a scale model kit — in holding a finished, painted aircraft or tank and knowing you built every part of it with your own hands. Scale modelling is a patient hobby that rewards attention to detail and develops a genuine set of skills: cutting, sanding, painting, weathering, and an eye for realistic representation.

It's also one of the most accessible hobbies around. A beginner can produce a perfectly respectable model on a first attempt, and an experienced modeller can spend hundreds of hours producing something almost indistinguishable from a photograph.

This guide covers everything you need to know to start — and to keep improving.

Access Models has been supplying plastic model kits since 1980. We've watched the hobby evolve from the days of simple Airfix kits to the extraordinary detail levels produced by today's manufacturers. Whatever subject you want to model, there's almost certainly a kit for it — and this guide will help you find it.

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Types of Scale Model Kits

Aircraft Kits

Aircraft are the most popular kit subject by a considerable margin — and it's not hard to see why. Aviation history is dramatic, the machines are beautiful, and the subject range spans from early biplanes through World War Two fighters to modern stealth aircraft. Almost every significant aircraft in history has been kitted by someone.

Common aircraft subjects:

  • World War Two fighters — Spitfire, Hurricane, Messerschmitt Bf 109, P-51 Mustang; the classic starting point
  • World War Two bombers — Lancaster, B-17 Flying Fortress, Heinkel He 111
  • Modern jet aircraft — F-16, F/A-18, Eurofighter Typhoon, Harrier
  • Cold War aircraft — P-38 Lightning, Lockheed U-2, SR-71 Blackbird
  • Civilian aircraft — Concorde, Boeing 747, various airliners
  • WWI aircraft — Sopwith Camel, Fokker Dr.I; often simpler kits with beautiful results

Aircraft kits are typically built in 1:72, 1:48 or 1:32 scale (see the scale guide below). 1:72 is the most common scale for aircraft — a Spitfire at 1:72 is roughly 15cm long and fits neatly on a shelf. 1:32 produces a large, impressive model but requires significantly more shelf space.

👉 Browse Airfix model aircraft kits

Military Vehicle Kits (Tanks and Armour)

Military vehicles — tanks, armoured personnel carriers, self-propelled guns, trucks — are the second major category. The level of mechanical detail available in modern armour kits is extraordinary; tracks are often individual links, engine compartments open up, and figures can be posed realistically in or around the vehicle.

Common military vehicle subjects:

  • World War Two tanks — Tiger I, Sherman, T-34, Panzer IV, Churchill; enduring classics
  • World War Two soft vehicles — Jeeps, Kübelwagen, Schwimmwagen, trucks
  • Modern armour — Challenger 2, Leopard 2, M1 Abrams, T-90
  • Self-propelled artillery — Sturmgeschütz, Hummel, M109
  • Half-tracks and armoured cars — highly detailed subjects with lots of stowage and equipment

Armour kits are most commonly found in 1:35 scale — this is the dominant standard, and the range from Tamiya, Revell and Trumpeter at 1:35 is enormous. Tracks in particular vary between manufacturers: single-link individual tracks are the most realistic but most time-consuming to assemble; vinyl band tracks are faster but less realistic.

Weathering — the process of making a model look used, worn and realistic — is particularly well-suited to armour models. Mud, rust streaks, chipped paint, exhaust staining and dust effects all elevate an armour model significantly.

Car Kits

Scale car kits span everything from classic 1960s muscle cars through Formula 1 racers to modern supercars. The detail in current car kits is exceptional — engines, suspension components, cockpit detail and authentic liveries are standard at the higher end.

Common car subjects:

  • Classic American muscle — Ford Mustang, Chevrolet Camaro, Dodge Charger; popular with Revell USA kits
  • Japanese sports cars — Nissan Skyline, Toyota Supra, Mazda RX-7; particularly well-served by Fujimi and Aoshima
  • Formula 1 and racing cars — Tamiya's F1 kits are legendary for accuracy and build quality
  • Classic European cars — VW Beetle, Mini Cooper, Jaguar E-Type

Car kits are typically 1:24 or 1:25 scale. At 1:24, a full-size car produces a model approximately 18cm long. Tamiya's 1:24 Sports Car series is the benchmark for quality — their kit quality, instruction clarity and fit are consistently excellent.

Ship Kits

Ship modelling is a smaller but dedicated community within the hobby. The complexity varies enormously: a simple 1:700 destroyer can be built in an afternoon, while a full 1:200 battleship with individual rivets, rigging and photo-etched detailing can occupy months of work.

Common ship subjects:

  • World War Two warships — Bismarck, Hood, Iowa-class battleships, Japanese carriers
  • Modern warships — HMS Queen Elizabeth, Nimitz-class carriers, destroyers and frigates
  • Historical sailing ships — HMS Victory, USS Constitution; often in larger scales with elaborate rigging
  • U-boats and submarines — highly popular subject at 1:72 and 1:144

The dominant scale for ship modelling is 1:700 — a standard destroyer at this scale is around 18cm long. For display models with real impact, 1:200 and 1:350 produce impressive results.

Rigging is the particular skill of ship modelling — fine thread or specialist rigging material is used to replicate the standing and running rigging of sailing ships. It requires patience but the results are spectacular.

Skill Levels Explained

Most manufacturers rate their kits by skill level, though rating systems vary between brands. Here's a general guide.

Skill Level 1 / Beginner

Few or no complex parts, snap-fit or minimal glue required, often pre-coloured plastic that reduces painting to minimal detail work. Good for children from around age 8, complete beginners of any age, or anyone wanting a quick, satisfying build. Airfix's "Snap Fit" range and Revell's "easykit" range fall here.

Typical characteristics: Under 50 parts, simple single-colour plastic, no decal or minimal decals, no complex sub-assemblies.

Skill Level 2 / Beginner-Intermediate

Standard beginner kits requiring glue, basic painting and decal application. The vast majority of Airfix 1:72 aircraft kits are at this level. Perfect for first-time builders who are happy to learn as they go. Most can be completed in a weekend.

Typical characteristics: 50–150 parts, multi-colour plastic, basic interior detail, waterslide decals included.

Skill Level 3 / Intermediate

More parts, finer detail, sometimes multiple sub-assemblies that must be built and painted before final assembly. Cockpit interiors, undercarriage bays and engine details become relevant. Tamiya's 1:48 aircraft and their 1:35 armour sit predominantly here.

Typical characteristics: 100–300 parts, detailed interior, photo-etched parts possible, multiple assembly stages, painting complexity increases.

Skill Level 4 / Advanced

Complex multi-part kits with extensive interiors, individual track links, photo-etched details and often multiple scale figure inclusions. Meng, Takom and Academy produce many kits at this level. Expect 10–30+ hours of build time for a quality result.

Typical characteristics: 300–1,000+ parts, full interior detail, individual link tracks, photo-etch included, masking required for clean paint demarcations.

Skill Level 5 / Expert

The highest tier: resin detail sets, aftermarket photo-etch, scratch-built elements and advanced painting techniques. This is competition-grade modelling. Most beginners will never need to go here — and won't want to until they've thoroughly mastered the earlier levels.

Our advice: Start at Skill Level 1 or 2. The goal of a first kit is to complete it and enjoy the process, not to produce a competition piece. Skills build naturally from there.

Essential Tools

The right tools make the difference between a clean, professional-looking build and a frustrating one. You don't need much to start.

Sprue Cutters / Side Cutters

The most important tool you'll buy. Sprue cutters are purpose-made scissors/cutters designed to clip plastic parts cleanly from the sprue (the plastic framework they're moulded on). Never try to snap parts off by hand — it leaves rough edges and often damages the part.

Good sprue cutters (Tamiya, Xuron, Gakken) make a clean, flush cut close to the part. Cheap ones leave a ragged edge and can spring the plastic.

Hobby Knife (Scalpel)

A sharp hobby knife (X-Acto No.1, Swann-Morton or similar) is used for:

  • Removing the small nub left after cutting from the sprue
  • Cleaning mould lines (the raised seam lines left by the casting mould)
  • Scribing detail
  • Cutting masking tape precisely

Replace blades frequently — a dull blade drags and damages plastic.

Plastic Model Cement

Polystyrene cement (Tamiya Extra Thin, Revell Contacta, Humbrol) chemically fuses plastic parts by dissolving and reforming the plastic surface. The result is a weld, not just an adhesive bond — far stronger than superglue for plastic-to-plastic joins.

Tamiya Extra Thin Cement is the most widely recommended: its brush allows precise application and it dries quickly. Apply to one surface, hold together for 30 seconds.

Sanding Sticks and Files

For cleaning up joins, removing mould lines and blending filler. A set of sanding sticks in various grits (120, 240, 400, 800) covers most situations. Micromesh sanding pads are used for ultra-fine finishing when a polished surface is needed.

Filler

Putty filler (Tamiya Basic Type, Squadron Green Stuff) fills gaps at joins — even well-engineered kits can have minor steps or gaps at seams. Apply, allow to dry, sand flush. A well-filled seam, once painted and weathered, should be invisible.

Tweezers

Fine-point tweezers are essential for placing decals, handling small parts and positioning photo-etch. A set of straight and angled tweezers covers most needs.

Magnification

For 1:72 and smaller work, magnification significantly improves accuracy. A hands-free magnifier lamp or loupe lets you see what you're actually doing on fine detail work. Highly recommended for anyone who builds aircraft in small scales.

Painting Techniques

Paint transforms a kit from a grey plastic assembly into a convincing scale replica. The techniques below range from beginner-accessible to advanced, but all produce better results than buying the best paint and applying it badly.

Priming

Always prime before painting. Primer gives paint something to adhere to, reveals surface imperfections (scratches, mould lines you missed, unfilled gaps), and provides a consistent neutral base. Rattle-can primer (Tamiya, AK, Vallejo) is the easiest application method. Grey primer is the all-purpose choice; black for dark colour schemes; white for bright colours and camouflage where colour accuracy matters.

Apply in thin, even coats from approximately 25cm distance. Two light coats beat one heavy coat every time. Heavy primer fills detail.

Brush Painting

Brush painting is the most accessible technique — it requires only brushes and paint, no airbrush or compressor. For simple colour schemes, brush painting produces excellent results. Key principles:

  • Thin your paints — acrylic paints should be thinned to a milk-like consistency. Thick paint obscures detail and shows brushstrokes.
  • Two thin coats — always preferable to one thick coat. The first coat may look patchy; the second covers evenly.
  • Flat brushes for large areas; fine rounds for detail — match the brush to the task.
  • Dry brushing — a technique particularly effective for highlighting raised detail: load a stiff brush lightly with paint, wipe most of it off on a tissue, then drag lightly over the surface. Paint catches raised edges, simulating worn paint and dust.

Airbrushing

An airbrush atomises paint into a fine mist, allowing even, smooth coverage and smooth colour gradations. It's the technique used by almost all advanced modellers for camouflage, shading and weathering.

The entry barrier is the cost — a basic airbrush and compressor starts at around £60–£80. However, the results are significantly better than brush for large flat areas, and mastering it opens up techniques (pre-shading, post-shading, zenithal highlights) not achievable with a brush.

For beginners, a single-action gravity-feed airbrush and a quiet mini compressor is a sensible starting kit. Tamiya and Harder & Steenbeck produce reliable entry-level airbrushes.

Washes and Panel Line Shading

A wash is a very thin, dark paint (typically dark brown, dark grey or black) applied over a primed or painted surface. Capillary action draws the wash into recesses — panel lines, rivets, grilles — darkening them and creating the illusion of depth and shadow.

Tamiya Panel Line Accent Colour (enamel-based) is purpose-made for this technique and works exceptionally well on plastic models. Apply with a fine brush along panel lines; excess is removed with a cotton bud moistened with enamel thinner. The enamel is controllable over an acrylic base coat because enamel thinners don't affect cured acrylic paint.

Weathering

Weathering is the process of making a model look used, worn and realistic rather than fresh from the factory. Techniques include:

  • Chipping — simulating worn and chipped paint using a sponge (for random chipping) or brush
  • Rust streaks — enamel or oil paint streaked downward from rust-prone areas (hinges, welds, drain holes)
  • Mud and dirt effects — texture pastes, pigments and MIG/AK products applied to lower surfaces and running gear
  • Exhaust and soot staining — dark pastes or airbrush work darkening exhaust outlets and gun barrels
  • Dust effects — fine pigments brushed on and fixed with pigment fixer, or hairspray technique

Weathering transforms a basic kit into a convincing scale model. Even simple chipping and a wash significantly improves the realism of a finished model.

Top Brands

Airfix

Airfix is the British institution of scale modelling — established in 1939 and still producing kits in the UK. Their range focuses primarily on aircraft, military vehicles, ships and figures in 1:72, 1:48 and 1:76 scales. Airfix kits are well-priced, well-engineered and cover an enormous range of subjects, with particular strength in British military aviation.

The Airfix Starter Sets are the definitive beginner entry point — each includes the kit, paints, glue and a brush, giving a complete first build for around £15–£25. Highly recommended for first-time builders.

👉 Browse Airfix model kits

Tamiya

Tamiya is the Japanese manufacturer that essentially defined the modern standard for kit engineering. Their moulding precision, instruction clarity and part fit are consistently excellent — often described as "the standard everything else is measured against." Their 1:35 armour range is the definitive collection for military vehicle modellers; their 1:48 aircraft range is outstanding; and their 1:24 sports car series is the benchmark for car kits.

Tamiya paints, tools and accessories are equally well-regarded. Their Extra Thin cement, Panel Line Accent Colour and masking tape are staples in virtually every modeller's toolkit.

👉 Browse Tamiya kits and paints

Revell

Revell is the European brand — German, though with roots going back to 1943 in the USA. They produce an enormous range of aircraft, armour, cars and ships, with particular strength in European aviation subjects (Luftwaffe, RAF, modern Bundeswehr). Revell kits are generally well-priced with good quality, making them an excellent choice for intermediate builders wanting variety.

Trumpeter

Trumpeter is a Chinese manufacturer who has significantly raised the bar for detail and accuracy at competitive prices. Their large-scale armour (1:16, 1:35) and ship kits (1:350, 1:700) are comprehensive and highly detailed. Some of their kits require a degree of skill to build well (fit can be variable) but the subject matter they cover — particularly Soviet and Chinese military equipment — is often unique in the market.

MiniArt, Meng and Takom

These manufacturers specialise in highly detailed, feature-rich armour kits aimed at intermediate to advanced modellers. MiniArt's full interior kits allow the tank to be built open or closed, with every internal component detailed. Meng and Takom frequently produce kit subjects that no other manufacturer covers, often with extraordinary accuracy.

Frequently Asked Questions

What's the best model kit for an absolute beginner?

An Airfix Starter Set — choose a subject you find interesting. They come with paints, glue and a brush, so everything you need is in one box. A Spitfire or Hurricane is a classic first build with forgiving tolerances and outstanding historical appeal.

Do I need an airbrush?

Not to start. Brush painting produces entirely acceptable results for beginners and intermediate builders. Consider an airbrush once you've built and painted 5–10 kits and are confident with the basics — the results justify the investment at that point.

What scale should I start with?

For aircraft, 1:72 is the natural starting point — manageable size, widest range, most forgiving tolerances. For armour, 1:35 is the standard but 1:72 armour is also excellent and more space-efficient. For cars, 1:24. Start at whatever scale your chosen subject is most available in.

What's the difference between Airfix and Tamiya quality?

Both produce excellent kits. Tamiya typically has the edge in moulding precision and instruction clarity, and their fit is consistently excellent. Airfix has improved significantly in recent years and produces outstanding modern toolings. The difference is less than it was 20 years ago — both are genuinely good brands.

How do I stop my canopy (cockpit cover) going cloudy when I glue it?

Use white glue (PVA) rather than polystyrene cement for clear parts — regular model cement crazes transparent plastic on contact. Apply sparingly around the edges only, avoiding the transparent surfaces. Future Floor Polish (or Pledge Multi-Surface Shine) applied to clear parts before gluing also adds clarity.

Can I display my models without painting them?

Yes, though unpainted plastic models look far less impressive than finished ones. As a minimum, primer gives a uniform appearance that already looks significantly better than bare plastic.