Warhammer 40,000 has a reputation for being expensive and complicated. That reputation is partly deserved — it's a deep hobby with a learning curve. But the first game, the first painted model, the first army you field on a table? Those moments are worth every penny and every hour. This guide gives you an honest picture of what you're getting into and exactly how to start.
What Is Warhammer 40,000?
Warhammer 40,000 (40K) is a tabletop wargame set in a grimdark sci-fi universe. You collect armies of plastic miniatures, build and paint them, then use them to fight battles against opponents using dice and a rulebook. Games Workshop produces the game and releases new armies, rules, and models on an ongoing basis.
The universe is set 38,000 years in the future. Humanity controls a vast galactic empire under the God-Emperor of Mankind. It's under constant assault — from Chaos (corrupted humans and daemons), Xenos (alien races including Orks, Tyranids, and Eldar), and from within (heresy, rebellion, mutation). Every faction has a distinct visual identity, play style, and lore going back decades.
A standard game takes 2-3 hours. Competitive tournaments use 2,000-point armies. Casual games can be as small as 500 points — perfectly achievable with a single boxed set. The game uses a 6x4ft table with terrain placed between armies, alternating turns of moving, shooting, and fighting in melee.
What You Need to Get Started
You do not need a full 2,000-point army to play Warhammer 40K. You need:
- Models (a starter set or Combat Patrol box)
- Rules (the Core Rulebook plus your faction's Codex — or just the free Core Rules PDF for your first games)
- Dice (D6 only, 10-20 dice of the same type)
- A tape measure
- Paints and glue (if you want to assemble and paint your models)
Starter Sets
Games Workshop produces a range of starter sets specifically aimed at new players. These typically include two small forces (one from each side of a particular conflict), simplified rules, a primer and some paints, and introductory missions. They're designed so you can learn the game with a friend, both getting into it at the same time.
Our guide to the best Warhammer 40K starter sets covers the current options with honest recommendations at each price point. Browse our full range of Warhammer products for current availability.
Combat Patrol Boxes
If you already know which faction you want to play, a Combat Patrol box is the most efficient entry point. Each Combat Patrol contains a legal 500-point force for a specific faction at a significant discount versus buying the kits separately. Combat Patrol rules are also the simplest version of 40K — ideal for learning the game mechanics before moving to full-size battles.
Choosing Your Faction
There are over 20 factions in Warhammer 40K. Don't agonise over this. Pick the one that appeals to you visually — you're going to be painting these models for months or years, so you'd better like looking at them.
Some broad categories:
Space Marines (Adeptus Astartes)
Superhuman soldiers in power armour. The most popular faction, the best-supported range, and the easiest to start with. Forgiving to paint, powerful in games, enormous variety of sub-factions (Ultramarines, Space Wolves, Blood Angels, Iron Hands, etc.). If in doubt, start here.
Chaos Space Marines
Corrupted, twisted versions of Space Marines. Visually dramatic — baroque armour, mutations, daemonic weaponry. More complex to paint than loyalist Marines but deeply rewarding. Each Legion (World Eaters, Death Guard, Thousand Sons, etc.) has a distinct character.
Orks
Warlike aliens who are essentially space football hooligans made of muscle. Great fun to paint — bright colours, crude weapons, masses of personality. Large armies. Surprisingly effective in games when used aggressively.
Tyranids
Alien swarm-mind. Bug-like monstrous creatures in enormous variety of sizes. Complex biological models. Fun to paint with washes and colour zenithal techniques. Play style revolves around overwhelming numbers and monster support.
Necrons
Ancient robot undead. Technologically supreme. Very striking silver-and-colour paint schemes, or corroded rust and green. Good for beginners — small elite forces, clear rules, forgiving paint schemes.
For a deeper breakdown, our faction guide covers every major army with play style notes and painting difficulty ratings.
Tools You'll Need
Before opening the box:
- Plastic cutters (clippers): Essential. Never tear plastic models from sprues — you'll damage details. A sharp pair of sprue cutters costs around £8-15. Worth every penny.
- Plastic glue: Citadel Plastic Glue or Tamiya Extra Thin are both excellent. Plastic glue fuses the plastic rather than just adhering it — much stronger than superglue for plastic-to-plastic.
- Hobby knife: For removing mould lines (faint ridges that run across every plastic model). Clean mould lines before painting or they show up clearly.
- Files: A small set of needle files helps smooth joins and flatten surfaces.
- Cutting mat: Protect your work surface. A self-healing mat lasts years.
Building Your First Models
Citadel plastic kits are some of the highest-quality injection-moulded miniatures available anywhere. They're also designed to be built in a specific way — the instructions show you the sequence. Follow the instructions in order.
Removing from the Sprue
Cut each piece close to the model but not flush — leave a tiny stub. Then come back and remove the stub with a second careful cut. Trying to cut flush in one go often results in slipping and damaging the model. Always cut away from your body.
Removing Mould Lines
Before gluing, find and remove mould lines. Run your thumbnail along the model — you'll feel them as ridges. Scrape gently with the flat side of a hobby knife blade, or use a mould line remover tool. Don't skip this: mould lines are invisible until you prime the model, at which point they become very obvious.
Gluing
Apply plastic glue sparingly — a thin coat on both surfaces, wait 10 seconds for it to become tacky, press together and hold for 30 seconds. Don't rush. Misaligned parts on miniatures are very difficult to fix after the glue sets. For awkward joins, use a rubber band or Blu-Tack to hold while curing.
To Subassemble or Not?
For your first models: assemble completely, then prime. As you get more experienced, you'll learn which parts are easier to paint before assembly — arms that block the chest, backpacks that obscure details. For now, build it finished and paint it as a complete model.
Painting: The Basics
You don't need to be an artist. The standard Citadel paint method — primer, base coat, shade wash, layer highlight — produces a tabletop-quality model that looks great on a gaming table, even as a beginner. It takes around 30-45 minutes per infantry model once you know the process.
Step 1: Prime
Primer is the first coat, applied by spray can or brush. It provides a surface that paint adheres to. Without primer, paint slides off the plastic and chips easily. Use Citadel Grey Seer (light grey primer) or Chaos Black (black primer). Grey Seer lets colours go on brighter; Chaos Black creates naturally deep shadows. Spray in light, even coats from about 25-30cm distance. Don't apply in humidity or cold.
Step 2: Base Coat
Citadel base paints are formulated for good coverage in a single coat. Apply with a medium brush, covering each area in the model's main colour. Don't worry about being perfect — stay within the lines as much as possible, but you'll tidy up in later stages. Two thin coats are better than one thick one.
Step 3: Shade Wash
This is the magic step. Citadel shades (Nuln Oil, Agrax Earthshade, Reikland Fleshshade) are very thin, flow-away washes that pool in the recesses of a model and create instant shadows. Brush the shade generously over the whole model or specific sections. The wash does the shading work for you. Let it dry fully before the next step (allow 20-30 minutes).
Step 4: Layer Highlight
Dry-brush or layer a lighter version of the base colour over the raised surfaces of the model. Dry-brushing: load a flat brush with paint, wipe most off on a tissue until almost no paint transfers, then lightly brush across the model. Paint catches on edges and raised details, leaving recesses dark. The result is a highlighted model with three visible tones — dark recess, mid base colour, bright highlight — from a very simple process.
Playing Your First Game
You don't need painted models to play. Many new players push grey plastic across the table for their first several games — that's completely normal and accepted at clubs and gaming groups.
Start with Combat Patrol-sized games (500 points). The rules are streamlined, the game is faster, and you'll learn the fundamentals without being overwhelmed. A standard turn consists of:
- Command phase: Use Command Points for special abilities
- Movement phase: Move your units according to their Move characteristic
- Shooting phase: Ranged weapons fire at targets in line of sight
- Charge phase: Units can attempt to close with the enemy
- Fight phase: Melee combat is resolved
- Morale phase: Units check Battleshock from losses
Both players complete their turn, then swap. Most games last 5 turns.
Where to Play
Games Workshop stores run regular beginner evenings and can pair you with experienced players. Independent hobby shops often have gaming nights too. The Warhammer Community website has a club finder. Online (Tabletop Simulator, Warhammer Online) is also an option once you know the rules well enough to play without guidance.
Model clubs and wargaming groups are often the best environment for new players — more experienced opponents, more variety, and no hard sell to buy more models. Most are welcoming to complete beginners.
What Does It Actually Cost?
Honest breakdown for a Combat Patrol-level start:
- Combat Patrol box: £75-95
- Core Rulebook: £35 (or free PDF for basic rules)
- Faction Codex: £30-35 (buy after you've decided you like the game)
- Paints starter set: £25-35 (Citadel Starter Set covers the basics)
- Brushes: £10-15 (a basecoat brush and a detail brush to start)
- Clippers and glue: £10-15
Total to start playing: £100-150 (box + primer + basic paints + tools, using free rules PDF). A reasonable hobby investment. The ongoing cost depends entirely on how deep into the hobby you go.
Common Beginner Mistakes
- Buying too much too fast. Start with one Combat Patrol or starter set. Learn that faction before buying more models. Many beginners have a "pile of shame" — unpainted boxes bought in enthusiasm before the basics are learned.
- Not priming. Painting straight onto bare plastic. The paint looks fine until it chips within days.
- Watering down washes too much. Shades come pre-thinned. Don't thin them. Apply directly from the pot.
- Thick coats of paint. Two thin coats always beats one thick coat. Thick paint obscures detail and dries with brush marks.
- Skipping mould lines. They show up clearly on a primed model.
- Trying to learn all the rules before playing. Play a game. Rules learned in context stick far better than rules studied in advance.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does it take to build and paint a full army?
A 1,000-point army typically contains 30-60 infantry models and 1-3 vehicles. At 1 hour per infantry model (tabletop standard) and 3-5 hours per vehicle, a 1,000-point army represents around 40-80 hours of hobby time. Most people spread this across several months of regular evening sessions.
Can I play Warhammer 40K solo?
The core game is designed for two players. However, the Crusade rules (narrative campaign framework) work well for solo play with some modifications, and there are fan-created solo rule supplements. Painting is entirely a solo activity and many hobbyists paint far more than they play.
What's the difference between 40K and Age of Sigmar?
40K is science fiction; Age of Sigmar is fantasy. Both use similar core mechanics but with very different settings, factions, and army compositions. Age of Sigmar is generally considered slightly more beginner-friendly in terms of army building and rule complexity. Read our full faction guide or the Age of Sigmar vs 40K comparison for more detail.
Do I need to buy a Codex straight away?
No. The free Core Rules PDF covers the basic game. For your first few games, borrow or look up your faction's datasheet points online — the Warhammer Community app (free) includes all current faction rules. Buy the Codex when you're committed to the faction and want the full narrative and competitive rules.
What's the best faction for a complete beginner?
Space Marines. They're the most forgiving to learn, their rules are clear, they're resilient in games, and their paint schemes range from beginner-friendly (single armour colour) to extremely complex (weathered battle-damaged veteran look). They're the most popular faction for a reason — they work.
Start Your Warhammer 40K Journey at Access Models
Browse our full Warhammer 40K range — starter sets, Combat Patrols, individual kits, and everything in between. Our Citadel paints range covers the complete Warhammer paint system. New to the hobby and not sure where to start? Visit our Warhammer beginners guide for a step-by-step overview. Fast UK dispatch, competitive prices — get your army on the table sooner.